The train. First, you’ll only travel in the First Class section. Second, if you haven’t eaten before you embark, not to worry as men pass through the cars at least once every 30 minutes selling hot meals, cold meals, chips, juice, tea, and just about everything else you can think of. Third, think ahead- pack only what you need for the day (and the night prior) and send your luggage ahead with your driver, all you need to do is pack up and Liberty will take care of all the rest- ensuring your luggage is in the car waiting for you when you arrive at the station. The train is not lavish nor luxurious, but seats are slightly bigger than the average airline economy seat with plenty of legroom, power outlets all over the walls and decent storage space for a small bag.
Agra is not a picturesque city, but then again when you have such a world renowned jewel in your backyard, it almost doesn’t matter. My daughter and I have developed this little game centered around some of the world’s greatest sights- she keeps a small picturebook filled with things like the Pyramids, Big Ben, etc and she was overjoyed to proudly be able to check off Taj Mahal. We took the token family photos, we stood in awe for long periods of time, and then we got to get up close. One must remove their shoes when entering, not to worry- guides have small booties that you can put on and swiftly discard after you exit, and the walk through is quick due to the large crowds. However, we had some chances to get up close to the walls which were inlaid with some of the most intricate stonework I have ever seen. More on this art in just a bit.
Leaving the Taj Mahal was difficult, it was an overwhelming sight to see and the story behind it gives you chills, to think it took more than 2 decades to construct this gorgeously crafted monument of dedication is tremendous and once you see how absolutely detailed it is, it’s a wonder it didn’t take 50 years.
I spent a bit of time at the nearby Oberoi Amarvilas, and in my opinion if you’re going to stay in Agra, there is no better place. Rooms and windows in public spaces graciously and gently frame the Taj Mahal in the background , with the signature lavish Oberoi colors, textures and designs inside that make for an absolutely luxurious experience. After a bit of lunch in Agra, we visited a small factory shop which has artisans on hand that still continue the ancient craft of stone inlay work, much of what you see in the Taj Mahal and other structures throughout the area. White marble is hand-etched in design, and the stoneworkers then carefully dab their hands in water while they handle precious stones which they trim down and shape to fit the etchings. One by one, stone by stone, spinning wheels turn as the stones morph into flower petals, elephant trunks, vine leaves and a variety of other designs. It’s interesting to watch and then of course you’ll be treated to a showroom with lots of curious completed designs to purchase.
Leaving Agra, we headed to Jaipur again via road. NB, this is a long drive- approximately 6 hours and almost nowhere to stop in between save for a small hotel that has a restaurant serving tea, with facilities, so best to prep for this ahead of time with snacks and drinks.
Jaipur is known as the Pink City, driving through the areas with the majestic temples, it’s easy to see why, though there is much of Jaipur that appears to be dusted in gold. Perhaps it’s the sandstorms which cause a gentle golden haze, or the colors that the temples and ancient walls have turned, but it is quite beautiful. Our first morning there began with an adventure of multiple proportions. We headed to the Amber Fort, a honey-colored fortress in the hills which is often described as the “Sleeping Beauty of India”. Inside the fort is beautiful, you’re able to tour through the remains of the royal apartments, take in sweeping views of the miles-long walls that line the city, and my guide timed it quite perfectly to ensure that I would be front and center during an actual ceremony at the Hindu temple inside the fort complex. I’ll never forget the experience- from the ringing bells to the devout prayers, to the flowers they placed around my neck and the blessing they placed on my forehead. It was one of those tremendous moments.
Now, the Fort is high up, very high up…limited road access and nearly impossible to climb. So, I took an elephant to the top. Yes, it truly was the most convenient and swift means of transport and I still can’t quite believe how this big guy navigated himself deftly up the winding trails that led to the top. This brightly painted, adorned being was so gentle and so dexterous, and it’s such a sensational feeling. Pass over a tip to the driver before disembarking though, it’s expected and if you forget, he’ll likely remind you. By the way, that line you see…we skipped. Liberty made sure of that.
